cool!No I meant I think we’re done here as in I just nailed it. That’s reminiscent of the gorilla arm pheno stabilized in seed form, but this time somehow ramped up to 25-30% THC, has the ability to purple with cold temps, I’m ecstatic. When these finish up in a few days here they’re going to be beautiful.
Sad-ish news though,
I over sprayed khalifa, it reverses very easily. She took damage to the point most of the pollen she dropped was sterile, but not all of itjust won’t have that many fem seeds this round. Will have to give Khalifa a special STS diluted bottle just for her, Apollo 13 was fine with Sigma Aldrich recommended strength.
Higher Power Genetics
- Thread starter DET—PDX
- Start date
DET—PDX
Insanely Active Member
Yeah for those of you looking to reverse plants, here is what I’ve learned
1. Start Spraying about 7 days prior to changing the light cycle from Veg to 12-12.
2. STOP SPRAYING at the first sign of flower production at the nodes. Continuing to spray silver on the developing pollen sacks can destroy the viability of the pollen. Since it takes about 3-5 days of 12-12 for plants to start showing, you will end up spraying STS for only 10-12 days. That’s all they need. The khalifa plant fully reversed itself, not a single female bud site remained, and yet most of the pollen (if you can call it that) was not viable. This is due to the direct spraying of the STS on the pollen sacks. Lessons learned.
3. Use 2/3 strength recommended by sigma Aldrich. Keep their dilution ratio the same.
(For every 100 mL of water, add:
-1.06g Na2S2O3
-1.134g AgNO3)
Apollo 13 R5 is definitely a go, looks like I have a few Mendo x Khalifa fem seeds as well. As the plants dry, I’ll start to find out how many seeds I may or may not have.
Today I’ll be trying out a live plant dry ice extraction just for fun. I’ll post updates of that later on.
1. Start Spraying about 7 days prior to changing the light cycle from Veg to 12-12.
2. STOP SPRAYING at the first sign of flower production at the nodes. Continuing to spray silver on the developing pollen sacks can destroy the viability of the pollen. Since it takes about 3-5 days of 12-12 for plants to start showing, you will end up spraying STS for only 10-12 days. That’s all they need. The khalifa plant fully reversed itself, not a single female bud site remained, and yet most of the pollen (if you can call it that) was not viable. This is due to the direct spraying of the STS on the pollen sacks. Lessons learned.
3. Use 2/3 strength recommended by sigma Aldrich. Keep their dilution ratio the same.
(For every 100 mL of water, add:
-1.06g Na2S2O3
-1.134g AgNO3)
Apollo 13 R5 is definitely a go, looks like I have a few Mendo x Khalifa fem seeds as well. As the plants dry, I’ll start to find out how many seeds I may or may not have.
Today I’ll be trying out a live plant dry ice extraction just for fun. I’ll post updates of that later on.
DET—PDX
Insanely Active Member
These plants started flower under 6000k grow lights, the first 3 weeks actually. I noticed the bracts of the nugs became much denser; the flowers became less leafy and much more chunky. I would suggest only starting blue light for week 1, or perhaps a mixed spectrum all the way through, otherwise your nugs will turn out like this; somewhat fox tail-ish. Normally Apollo forms perfect cones.
Here are the other strains which formed in a very similar fashion.
Without question the chunky nug look is what consumers (and trimmers) want, but the red light stimulates so much better THC/Resin production, blue light has been shown to increase yield and terpene production.
Opie1
Master Grower
That’s good info to know. I’ve currently got a plant that’s under a 5000k led strip fixture and I think I waited too long about flipping it into flower (it’s in a 25 gal pot). I know it’s gonna need more light (watts) but I’m kinda wondering if I should wait until the stretch is over before adding it?? It almost fills up a 4x4 (it’s at least 3x4) and is over 4ft. I can’t remember when it was started, probably June, it was slow in early veg. So what’s the consensus say, Wait until stretch is over to add the other fixture or would that reduce the final yield? The other fixture is a 3500k led strips, I can fit both fixtures in the tent and I guess I’ll rotate it daily or at least every other day.
DET—PDX
Insanely Active Member
@Opie1
About 3 days prior to flower, increase the light intensity a bit. For example, when I switch to flower, I go from around 450 umol in the veg room to 800ish umol HPS bulbs in the flower room. Before flipping to 12-12, I’ll veg them in this room under the new lights for around 3 days so that they can adjust to the dimmed HPS in the new light intensity and spectrum. After 3 days, I’ll switch the timers to 12-12, and at this point, increase light intensity to 750w, then 825w a few days after. For you, this might involve raising your new light up, or dimming it, then once you’re ready to flip, lower the light or crank the wattage up. Whenever you make changes to the environment, it’s always better to do so gradually. In fact, you can slowly back the hours of daylight off from 18 to 12 with healthier results. Mimic sunset by turning one light off first, and the same with sunrise. Any intensity larger than 1000 umol will require co2 to be useful, and past 1600 umol can become toxic to the plant in general. An 750 watt HPS puts out around 1000 umol of light, with around 4x8 coverage. A 350w LED can also put out around 1000 umol of light, with far less coverage, around 4x4, and the intensity toward the edges is more like 750
I like Mars Hydro LED boards, they use Samsung diodes and have lots of infrared light for better flowering under LED.
Amazon they’re 150-250$.
The king of sticky dank flower always will be 2100k double ended HPS lights, and unless you have a basement, they need an AC unit to produce good flower. There is no replacing the effect of UV light in terms of resin production. UV LED’s can be purchased, I’ll be looking into this next summer.
Winter is coming… it’s HPS szn
About 3 days prior to flower, increase the light intensity a bit. For example, when I switch to flower, I go from around 450 umol in the veg room to 800ish umol HPS bulbs in the flower room. Before flipping to 12-12, I’ll veg them in this room under the new lights for around 3 days so that they can adjust to the dimmed HPS in the new light intensity and spectrum. After 3 days, I’ll switch the timers to 12-12, and at this point, increase light intensity to 750w, then 825w a few days after. For you, this might involve raising your new light up, or dimming it, then once you’re ready to flip, lower the light or crank the wattage up. Whenever you make changes to the environment, it’s always better to do so gradually. In fact, you can slowly back the hours of daylight off from 18 to 12 with healthier results. Mimic sunset by turning one light off first, and the same with sunrise. Any intensity larger than 1000 umol will require co2 to be useful, and past 1600 umol can become toxic to the plant in general. An 750 watt HPS puts out around 1000 umol of light, with around 4x8 coverage. A 350w LED can also put out around 1000 umol of light, with far less coverage, around 4x4, and the intensity toward the edges is more like 750
I like Mars Hydro LED boards, they use Samsung diodes and have lots of infrared light for better flowering under LED.
Amazon they’re 150-250$.
The king of sticky dank flower always will be 2100k double ended HPS lights, and unless you have a basement, they need an AC unit to produce good flower. There is no replacing the effect of UV light in terms of resin production. UV LED’s can be purchased, I’ll be looking into this next summer.
Winter is coming… it’s HPS szn
koolhandluke
New Member
You're from Detroit Michigan
hometown boy making good
I'm just curious what's been your experience on finding the warehouses to rent how hard have you been
DET—PDX
Insanely Active Member
Warehouses for rent are pretty easy to find. The city planners have grows limited to the periphery of the city, you’ll want to look in Warren, Ferndale, Hazel Park, Madison Heights, maybe Mount Clemens.You're from Detroit Michigan
hometown boy making good
I'm just curious what's been your experience on finding the warehouses to rent how hard have you been
You would be better off just renting any office space for much cheaper, and if you were looking to get a license, you’ll need to commit to North East Detroit, Warren or Hazel Park.
