I'd like to apply to be a tester for your f1s of the pheno hunt please.First successful chuck. (That wasn’t an accident) deep Congo x deep Congo
Going to do a mass pheno hunt with these here beans
View attachment 13907
Oh ofcourse it's whenever youre in need of testers just thought I'd offer. It sounds amazing. Sounds like you've got a full plate. I was just looking into breeding autos.Thanks buddy. Sure thing. Let’s see if I can find something a wee bit more stable out of these. Mom was shooting late game nanners and lost a lot of main cola to budrot. My conditions were not ideal in her defence, but I have plenty of plants that didn’t do that in those conditions. This bud is special a smells ridiculously good tho so I’m definitely going to work on this later. First I got testing to do for a member here and a couple lose ends to tie up before i take this on . I also still have 3 or 4 of the beans that I started with from Richard Williams. I also chucked male deep Congo pollen at a breeding auto so that should be fun also
For sure bro. Thanks for sharing that great info!Oh ofcourse it's whenever youre in need of testers just thought I'd offer. It sounds amazing. Sounds like you've got a full plate. I was just looking into breeding autos.
Auto = aa
Photo = AA
Auto x Photo = Aa (will not auto)
Aa x Aa (two of the non-autoing offspring crossed together) = AA, Aa, Aa, aa (One fourth will auto. Keep that one)
*Note: During all steps, only select the offspring with your favorite traits to continue breeding with (ie. Not all of the autoflowering offspring in this step will be identical).
aa x aa (two auto'ing offspring from the last generation) = aa (all auto'ing)
Your new auto's would have 50/50 genetics from the auto and the photo parent.
You can then repeat the process with that new autoflower you just made, instead of the one you used originally, to make the genetic percentage lean more and more towards the photo parent, through back-crossing (crossing the new auto offspring to the original photo parent). The catch is, the percentage difference each time is exponentially less, and never reaches 100% (you need at least the autoflower gene(s) from the auto parent).
50/50 -> 75/25 -> 87.5/12.5 -> 93.75/6.25 -> etc.
Therefore, within four rounds of this breeding, your auto would be very very close to the original photo. Depending on how suitable your auto parent choice was, you might not be able to even tell the difference between the new autos and their photo parents.
Ideally, after you settle on having back-crossed enough times, you would take your latest batch of seeds, and label them F1.
Then cross siblings from each generation, until you hit F7 to have a very stable strain that shows little difference (Should have one phenotype).
All day brobro! That's fuckin awesome. Weed the homeless! Stand up fuckin man you are unc. When they have the weed they see no need for the heroween. Bro that's really fuckin awesome! Can't wait to see what comes of this for you.For sure bro. Thanks for sharing that great info!
The male dc I chucked was trying to nut early veg so I feel these potential plants will all be fast if not true automatic or consistent. The intended purpose is for outdoor seed for next summer. I’m giving them away to gorilla growers locally and growing em myself for a ‘weed the homeless’ thing I started.
Half of anything yielded from these beans is getting passed out to our local street folks for free. I find folks stick less needles in themselves when they have weed to toke on.
look at them roots mang pretty good for a neglected cutting!I’m officially a hydroponic grower lol. Move over @spyralout . I forgot this cutting in a window sill.
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My crazy run as a hydro guy was short lived tho. Plopped her into a solo cup o dirt.
Half a plant away from being caught up on trimming. Aunt Rom has been helping... two are coming down prob tomorrow tho. My fingees are sore and gooey
View attachment 13932
Hahaha wtf bro. No updates? You ok over there?No posts yet lol but it will get there
Hahaha
Having some lockout issues. Tried to flush a few times and lowering ppm isn't working. Ph dropping hardHahaha wtf bro. No updates? You ok over there?
I’ll get my grandmother to pray for ya. That’s often worked in the past.Having some lockout issues. Tried to flush a few times and lowering ppm isn't working. Ph dropping hard
Some reason I dont think most autoslower compqnies spend that much time.Oh ofcourse it's whenever youre in need of testers just thought I'd offer. It sounds amazing. Sounds like you've got a full plate. I was just looking into breeding autos.
Auto = aa
Photo = AA
Auto x Photo = Aa (will not auto)
Aa x Aa (two of the non-autoing offspring crossed together) = AA, Aa, Aa, aa (One fourth will auto. Keep that one)
*Note: During all steps, only select the offspring with your favorite traits to continue breeding with (ie. Not all of the autoflowering offspring in this step will be identical).
aa x aa (two auto'ing offspring from the last generation) = aa (all auto'ing)
Your new auto's would have 50/50 genetics from the auto and the photo parent.
You can then repeat the process with that new autoflower you just made, instead of the one you used originally, to make the genetic percentage lean more and more towards the photo parent, through back-crossing (crossing the new auto offspring to the original photo parent). The catch is, the percentage difference each time is exponentially less, and never reaches 100% (you need at least the autoflower gene(s) from the auto parent).
50/50 -> 75/25 -> 87.5/12.5 -> 93.75/6.25 -> etc.
Therefore, within four rounds of this breeding, your auto would be very very close to the original photo. Depending on how suitable your auto parent choice was, you might not be able to even tell the difference between the new autos and their photo parents.
Ideally, after you settle on having back-crossed enough times, you would take your latest batch of seeds, and label them F1.
Then cross siblings from each generation, until you hit F7 to have a very stable strain that shows little difference (Should have one phenotype).
Thanks. I'm in UC RDWC so I believe the PPM run a lot lower in this type of system. I am flushing now with florakleen and at lights on will nute up again using GH3 for the rest of the run.@spyralout
If I remember correctly, you’re only running like 900-1000ppm. It’s kind of low whether it’s a .5 or .7 conversion factor. At .7 I routinely ran 1300ppm. Some would show a slight tip burn, some were fine with it. Either way grew great.
I recently switched to cheaper separate meters instead of an all in one.
I didn’t realize the new ones were .5 and was having issues with dropping pH. I switched to EC out of curiosity. Turned out my mix was too weak. 1300 ppm @ .7 is about 2800 EC.
Since I bumped up the mix, pH is stable... so far.
Also, if your not wanting to add more nutes. Epsom salt will raise the pH and is probably what the girls are sucking down atm anyway.
FYI, I was using GH 3 part / advanced Lucas Formula. Which only uses 2 of the 3 parts
What does the “UC” stand for. I was running RDWC as well.Thanks. I'm in UC RDWC so I believe the PPM run a lot lower in this type of system. I am flushing now with florakleen and at lights on will nute up again using GH3 for the rest of the run.
Under Current designWhat does the “UC” stand for. I was running RDWC as well.