Few photos.
Bare strip.
![694F2149-6A6C-4772-BE12-1875A6BC6C87.jpeg](/data/attachments/31/31152-037be3c20eb32f292199f35ab3cc77e7.jpg)
Nice aluminium backing for heat transfer. EB strips are Fiberglas, not as good.
![4A4E6E91-E3B6-4496-B6B2-94A164F707FC.jpeg](/data/attachments/31/31153-5965469cf090ffb26d5dd33ce15fc97e.jpg)
End profile. Some nice cooling fins.
![A6856315-245B-4FDC-8A6A-E6F6D559B13D.jpeg](/data/attachments/31/31154-7b5501f4e05eb40badaf5f8b94c28860.jpg)
![E0C650DB-22A0-4FB4-9154-35880CC2D14D.jpeg](/data/attachments/31/31155-a115bac1c480423e6afbbd38704461e8.jpg)
Not sure what you call the connectors but the plug and twist lock.
![9F526E0A-0A02-42D2-B554-74AC811F29AA.jpeg](/data/attachments/31/31156-174a96bd99924a154e66a548b5228325.jpg)
I did some destructive testing when I first tested.
Like a kid I knew better. I had 2 lights hooked up to a 600 watt driver and gave the DIM pot a quick twist to blind my self and a herd a little snap. Didn’t think any thing of it but one LED unsoldered itself and moved a bit. Left one row (5LED open).
Of course I had to see if I could fix it. Ordered a hot air soldering gun and gave it a go.The glass didn't want to come off but I was able to brake the bond to heat sink and remove the strip.
The air gun wasn’t quite hot enough as I was heating from the back side. And the back is aluminium. Best backing for heat transfer. Air and a pen soldering iron I got the LED to move back to its spot and low and behold the row works again. Now I have to figure how to epoxy it back in.
Thought I would update with some picks. I'll get more soon.