I keep geting rain in the afternoon, sometimes not enough that it really waters anything, except keeping the yard damp so I can't mow it. And the taller it gets the more moisture it retains LOL
When I get to it I'll snap pics but I have some clover gone to seed that is about a foot tall. Right next to it is a patch that's half that heignt and fluffy white with bees of all types and other stuff at it all day. I am still using cardboard to mulch the pathways but clover works as well or better, and puts more nutes back in the soil. And I don't feel bad getting it closer to the vegetable plants.
I have a few bush beans that vined, or pole beans that got mixed in, but they are shading he tomatoes so that's priority one when it cools off. No sacrificing tomatoes for beans. That's a fig tree in the cement pot upper right bu he stump, and the [probable] birdhouse gourd to the left on what was my compost pile. Alone the fence between the inner and ouer rows of peppers is the volunteer tomato [which are always cherry tomatoes] and it is first out of the gate as expected.
I snipped about 2lbs of future compost off the new limbs sprouting everywhere. I keep leaves and fruit. and lots of LST.
I need to give all the tomatoes another wrap or two around he paracord and prune away the lower leaves and some but not all shoots. My beefsteak types are gonna stay shorter and can have all the limbs they want, and I'll drop a new string where needed. But the cherries will end up making a canopy on top of the racks so I keep no extra limbs on them unless they are looking pretty sparse. Then I'll wrap them around the same string until it gets to the top.
The other thing I like about pruning away the lower stuff is keeping the ground pests uninterested. Once you have the old dying leaves they all get as the plant ages the pest pressure spikes. In general I would prune all the stuff below the fruit growth. Old leaves and flower sets where the tomatoes were. This also un-shades the lower stuff and you can start another crop.